Jambo Kilimanjaro!

Tamreez
09 November 2009 | Kilimanjaro Trek 2009!
Kilimanjaro was the best and the worst experience of my life. That’s a very Dickens-esque  beginning isn’t it?
Kili- above the clouds

Our first sight of Kili from the plane

I call it the best because we really enjoyed ourselves and I am so proud of us for accomplishing something so extraordinary. I’ve always been a bit of a weakling so even I find it hard to believe that I actually did it. My sisters later told me they were quite surprised we reached the top! Ha, so there!

 We wouldn’t have enjoyed ourselves if we hadn’t been lucky enough to end up with such an amazing group of people. Everyone was so interesting, fun and smart; it was absolutely fascinating getting to know them and spending time with them. Such experiences are also interesting because people bond faster when they are stuck with each other over extended periods of time taken away from their comfort zone. People had us asking personal questions about when we got married, how we met, how we proposed and so on and so forth and similarly they were forthcoming about personal stories, marriages, childhood experiences et al. We would be joking and laughing and that would make the hours fly by. Apart from our 25 member FTCF team, we also had 9 other people in our group who were fundraising for different charities of their choice and they all had such inspiring stories to tell about their reasons for fundraising. One gentleman was raising funds for a charity at the request of his very ill mother who subsequently passed away.
Kili- group shot Day 4

Our amazing group

For Asim and I, it was our first experience camping outdoors. Apart from the first night when I could barely sleep because of all the noises and sounds, we got the hang of it (in my case, it was earplugs leant to me that made all the difference!). Going without showering and even washing my face for a week was the not-so-nice part about camping, however, it was still impressive how comfortable our stay was made for us by the huge team of porters and guides (above 60 of them for 30 of us!) looking after our team. While we would be huffing and puffing carrying our 3-5 kg bags, the porters would be carrying over 30 kgs each and rushing along before us to set up camp and cook a hot meal before we would even get there. And after we had moved on in the morning, they would take down the tents, wash and clean all the dishes and equipment, move on to the next campsite and repeat the same process. If that wasn’t impressive enough, they would be singing and dancing in the mornings in high spirits! Absolutely incredible! Let’s not forget that these aren’t people born with super human strength but to earn a living under harsh conditions they’ve been made almost superhuman.

Kili- porters

Kili porters live a tough life

Talking to the porters one on one, almost all of them would admit that their first couple of trips up the mountain, they had been literally crying because they found it so hard. In recent years, laws have been introduced that protect a porter from carrying more than 30 kgs. All of us had been instructed to make sure our bags for the porters weren’t more than 15 kgs each but they were a bit lax about a few extra kgs. Also, the guides had to make sure that the porters were getting enough to eat and were properly dressed. But ours was one of the big and reputed companies in Tanzania, I wonder if other companies took such care of their porters. I also compared their condition to the porters in Pakistan who accompany K2 climbers. I’ve read accounts of them carrying up to 75kgs and I’m not aware if there are laws protecting them or how stringently these are enforced. On our last day, a group of porters was passing us by and one of them said something to which everyone laughed heartily. I asked our guide to translate and the porter had said “If only I’d gone to school, I wouldn’t have to do this today!” That makes me wonder if such expeditions should be allowed to everyone or only to those who are strong enough to carry their stuff themselves and the porters should only carry the equipment and their own stuff. But I have to remind myself that for many porters and especially guides, this is still very lucrative employment and many in the country are able to raise their standard of living because of it. At the end of the trip, our group was more than happy to give a tip of $100 each which was equally divided amongst the porters. They more than deserved it!

Our camping was made as comfortable as possible by the wonderful porters

Our camping was made as comfortable as possible by the wonderful porters

It’s absolutely phenomenal how much one can push the human body. It was not just true for the porters but also for ourselves. Every day we would trek for an average of 7-8 hours and go to bed (read: sleeping bag) absolutely exhausted and aching all over, but the next morning we would be rearing to go! For our summit attempt, we had trekked and climbed for more than 10 hours (6:30am to 5pm); got to camp, had an early dinner, slept for about 2 hours, got up at 10:30 pm and started climbing at 11:30 pm the same night! The temperature was about -15C when we started but the wind chill made it absolutely unbearable. After about 2 hours of climbing, I was convinced that my fingers and toes would have to be chopped off! Even though I wore a pair of ski gloves over fleece gloves, my hands were achingly numb. Our porter was trying his best to revive circulation in my hands by massaging them through the gloves, but I felt awful for creating a fuss when he wasn’t wearing gloves himself! I asked one of the guides later why that was the case and he said that some porters feel the gloves are more of a hindrance in their work and they find it easier to keep their hands warm if they keep them in their pockets and keep rubbing them. What also made the climb so hard was the fact that we had barely had any sleep. I would be walking with my eyes closed almost drifting into sleep when the porter would say to me “hakuna kulala” (no sleeping) and I would force my eyes open. After every few minutes I would look back at Asim (being a protective husband, he insisted on walking behind me) and his eyes would be closed. My concern for him would jolt me out of my own slumber for a bit and I’d try my best to keep him awake and motivated. I really don’t think we would have made it that night if we both hadn’t been pushing and inspiring each other to keep going. Also I think if even one of us had said “let’s quit”, the other might have agreed a bit too readily. But we didn’t and I’m so proud of us for not giving up!
Kili- Day 4

It was a never ending hike!

 
 Now that I’ve started describing the horrors of summit night, it brings me to why I said at the beginning that this trip was the worst experience of my life. On day 3, Asim and I suffered from altitude sickness. Even though we took Diamox, we had a pounding headache, felt dizzy and queasy which just made you want to stop and lay down, but that’s the last thing you’re supposed to do. Diamox also makes you pee more often because of which we were making regular pit stops (my sisters can attest to my phobia of not being able to go to a bathroom when I need to, so I think I probably took more stops than necessary). As a result, we got left behind. Being separated from the group I think made the whole ordeal worse for me. It really kills your enthusiasm and morale when you have to walk through a misty unchanging landscape for hours without seeing anyone else from your group even miles ahead of you.
Suffering from altitude sickness-- what a happy camper!

Suffering from altitude sickness-- what a happy camper!

At lunch break, we were finally reunited with our group and even though after lunch I was feeling just as bad, I was able to continue because I had joined the others and found out that some of them were feeling just as bad. When we finally made our way into camp about an hour later than others from our group (we’d been split into smaller groups to let the faster ones reach earlier), Hina and Rameez came up with a brilliant idea to not let the others feel any superiority over us (yes, we were a bunch of kids!). We put sublock on our faces like war paint and marched into camp singing and hooting! The whole camp came out to see what was going on and the porters joined us singing and dancing! It ended what had been otherwise an awful day on a really good note!

Kili- DAy 3

Ending day 3 on a positive note

 

Women describing labour pains say that it is the most terrible thing they have ever experienced and while they are going through it, they vow to themselves (and scream to others around them, mostly husbands) that they will never again do it again. But the joy of having a baby, the fruit of their labour, makes them forget the ordeal and before they know it, they’re having another one. Summit night for me was exactly like that. Not that I see myself climbing Kilimanjaro any time soon, but I will not lie and say that the idea has not crossed my mind! In writing this I’m trying to remember the whole thing in its entirety and what I can remember is climbing for eight hours of below freezing temperatures, scared of suffering from hypothermia and frostbite.

For the last hour, I was bawling (how embarrassing) because I realized that I could not go down and give up now but I still had an hour more of climbing which my exhausted and frozen body refused to undergo. It was sheer helplessness and fear of frostbite that made me succumb to tears. God bless Raza for taking pity on me and giving me a self-heating pellet that warmed up my hands enough to make me stop crying for a bit. I’m ashamed to admit that even once I reached the top, I didn’t think of taking pictures or praying nafal or anything worthwhile (that many others from our group did), all I could think of was how COLD I was and that it wasn’t over yet. I would still have to spend hours climbing down! Thankfully at that point I didn’t know just how hard that descent through scree was going to be! When I now see others’ pictures at Uhuru Peak (we stopped at Stella Point which is the top of the mountain but Uhuru Peak, 45 minutes from Stella Point, is the highest point on the rim of the crater which we decided we did not want to go to), I feel like going again and doing it. But of course very soon rationality prevails and tells me that reaching the top is reaching the top, a picture with a signpost is not the most important thing.
On top of Kili

On top of Kili

Of course the thing that made the trip absolutely worthwhile was the fact that we not only raised a lot of funds for FTCF we also raised awareness about the organization and many people who had never heard of The Citizens Foundation got to hear about it and open-heartedly supported the cause. Our combined group total was almost £80,000! This amount is enough to run 9 schools for a year, effective educating approximately 1350 students belonging to some of the most underprivileged families in the country! For us, it is a source of great pride and inspiration that so many dedicated people within Pakistan and abroad, whether Pakistanis or not, are so committed to the cause of educating the poor in Pakistan. It renews my hope for the country’s future, which to be honest, seems quite bleak at the moment so every positive effort and achievement needs to be cherished and celebrated. Our group raised the flag of Pakistan on Kilimanjaro and offered a ray of hope to it’s next generation. Today as we celebrate Iqbal Day, the 9th of November, here’s one achievement that I hope will make all of us proud of being Pakistanis!

Kili- group flag pic last day

Pakistan Zindabad!


14 Responses to “Jambo Kilimanjaro!”

  • 1 Ammar Says:

    November 9th, 2009 saat: 10:20 pm

    So proud of you guys! :D ….

  • 2 Mishi Says:

    November 9th, 2009 saat: 10:59 pm

    Tami I think you and Asim are amazing. Your account of the trip was fascinating for the difficulties and toughness and the sheer human spirit that got you through it. I love all the little details, crying and all, because it makes me feel even more how hard it must have been to get through it. *hug* Congratulations:) I feel for the porters too, thanks for all the details, they seem pretty unbelievable people and I hope their jobs are worth it for the benefits they wouldn’t be able to find otherwise. I agree with you about this being such a bleak time for Pakistan and it’s nice that you provide us all with a ray of hope at a time like this. <3

  • 3 Mishi Says:

    November 9th, 2009 saat: 11:02 pm

    p.s. I love the Dickensian comments:)

  • 4 Moniba Nazeef Says:

    November 10th, 2009 saat: 12:42 am

    It was a wonderful account Tami. Absolutely loved it. I was so engrossed in it, I felt like I was experiencing everything myself. Hats off to your organization for undertaking such a daunting task and succeeding in spreading so much awareness not forgetting the enormous fund raised. May Allah bless you and give you the courage to keep working for the cause!

  • 5 Kalsoom Says:

    November 10th, 2009 saat: 3:19 am

    Congrats Tamreez!!

  • 6 Sabooh Uddin Says:

    November 10th, 2009 saat: 4:47 am

    Dear Friends;

    You did a great job. Congrad.

  • 7 Sana Abbas Says:

    November 10th, 2009 saat: 8:17 am

    MashAllah i am so happy & proud of you guys!

    We truely need you guys here. Keep it up! *hugggggg*

  • 8 Hareem Sumbul Says:

    November 10th, 2009 saat: 10:33 am

    I am SO proud of you
    This is absofrikkinlutely AWESOME!
    MashaAllah
    I had complete trust in you guys to have accomplished this and you did!
    I love lvoe lvoe the happy camper photo!
    I wish I could hugg you right now Tam!
    Bless you both :)
    Khush Raho Hamesha
    Aamiin summ Aamiin

  • 9 Jawad Laitf Says:

    November 10th, 2009 saat: 3:29 pm

    WOW ! Amazing ! :)

  • 10 Tamreez Says:

    November 11th, 2009 saat: 5:21 pm

    Thanks everyone!

    Mishi, I’m glad you liked the details…especially the ones about me crying! lol

    Hareem, trust you to love love the ugliest picture I posted!! :D

  • 11 Hafsa Qureshi Says:

    December 13th, 2009 saat: 10:26 pm

    keep writing tamreez…i love it

  • 12 Tamreez Says:

    December 14th, 2009 saat: 4:06 pm

    Thanks Hafsa! Appreciate the support! :)

  • 13 Rano Says:

    January 12th, 2010 saat: 9:11 am

    So proud of you !

  • 14 chandgul Says:

    July 30th, 2010 saat: 12:35 am

    you guys r amazing so proud of u. tamreez u done a wonderful job.

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